Writing the Future: Basquiat and the Hip-Hop Generation

The post-graffiti moment in 1980s New York City marked the transition of street art from city walls and subway trains onto canvas and into the art world. Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960–1988) became the galvanizing, iconic frontrunner of this transformational and insurgent movement in contemporary American art, which resulted in an unprecedented fusion of creative energies that defied longstanding racial divisions. This exhibition features his works in painting, sculpture, drawing, video, music, and fashion, alongside works by his contemporaries—and sometimes collaborators—A-One, ERO, Fab 5 Freddy, Futura, Keith Haring, Kool Koor, LA2, Lady Pink, Lee Quiñones, Rammellzee, and Toxic. Throughout the 1980s, these artists fueled new directions in fine art, design, and music, driving the now-global popularity of hip-hop culture.

“Writing the Future: Basquiat and the Hip-Hop Generation” illuminates how this group’s subversive abstractions of both visual and verbal language—including neo-expressionism, freestyle sampling, and wildstyle lettering—rocketed their creative voices onto the main stages of international art and music. It is the first major exhibition to contextualize Basquiat’s work in relation to hip-hop and marks the first time his extensive, robust, and reflective portraiture of his Black and Latinx friends and fellow artists has been given prominence in scholarship on his oeuvre. Notable among those works is the much-revered painting Hollywood Africans, which lionizes Toxic and Rammellzee, the legendary artist/philosopher who is also represented with multiple works in “Writing the Future,” and with whom Basquiat created the prophetic, influential, and talismanic rap song “Beat Bop.”

Learn more about Basquiat, his peers, and New York’s post-graffiti era.

October 18, 2020–May 16, 2021
Ann and Graham Gund Gallery (Gallery LG31)

KERBY JEAN-RAYMOND x REEBOK VP CREATIVE DIRECTION

Reebok Names Kerby Jean-Raymond/Pyer Moss
Vice President of Creative Direction

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The CFDA Award winner will also release in 2022 the first products of Reebok's Product With Purpose program.

Kerby Jean-Raymond is assuming greater responsibility at Reebok.

The New York City-based designer and founder of Pyer Moss has been named vice president, creative direction, for the sports brand. In this role, he will provide creative leadership and work closely with Reebok’s product, global marketing and development organizations to ensure consistency across all areas.

Jean-Raymond will also be at the forefront of the brand’s Product With Purpose program, which is part of its commitment to United Against Racism. The program will launch in 2021 and the first products by Jean-Raymond will release in 2022. In addition, he will serve on the Reebok senior leadership team and report to president Matt O’Toole. O’Toole confirmed that the Reebok by Pyer Moss collection will continue as planned.

“I am thrilled to be evolving my role at Reebok and joining the leadership team as the head of creative direction,” Jean-Raymond said in a statement. “I welcome this opportunity to help invigorate the brand with new ideas, while also focusing on instilling a sense of social purpose into our work.”

In an Instagram post on Wednesday, Jean-Raymond expanded on the statement: “I started working with Reebok in 2017 after meeting Damion Presson [Reebok’s director of entertainment marketing]. I was brought in to support the launch of a shoe at the time called the ‘DMX Fusion.’ We made our own version called the Experiment 1 and were asked to make some apparel to support one of their retail partners at a mass market price point. I’m not really too good at following rules, so I didn’t pretend to try.

“Instead we made a series of collections we believed in, incorporated our collaboration into our runways and created content that spoke to what we were already doing at Pyer Moss. Campaign 1, Seven Mothers (Campaign 2) and a series of videos called ‘Imma Ball Anyway’ were some of my favorites. Many of these projects were a result of us seeing how far we could go before someone yelled ‘uncle.’

“No one did, and I was grateful.

“Today, that collaboration will evolve. Pyer Moss is not just a partner of Reebok, but I am now the creative director, globally. Or technically…vice president, creative direction. To my Reebok fam, there’s a lot of work to do. Can our mind-sets collectively evolve to serve the future? Are we inclusive enough? Are we bold enough? Are we challenging tradition enough? Are we ready to unlearn? It’s going to be difficult. I’m ready though.”

Reebok and Jean-Raymond have worked together for four years on the Reebok by Pyer Moss collection, a popular footwear line. Their work together led to Jean-Raymond winning Footwear News’ 2018 Collaboration of the Year Award and the 2019 FNAA Person of the Year Award. He took home the CFDA Award for Menswear Designer of the Year and Designer of the Year from Harlem Fashion Row this year.

Last year, he was named artistic director of Reebok Studies, a new division created to foster emerging talent, and this year launched with Kering, Your Friends in New York, a fashion, culture, wellness and philanthropy platform to foster the next generation of innovators.

“Kerby is a fashion visionary with a bold approach who has established himself as a leader and a passionate activist,” O’Toole said. “We are incredibly excited about the impact he will have on Reebok from a design and brand purpose perspective and for him to bring his unique voice and direction to the Reebok brand more broadly. This is certainly a big opportunity for both Reebok and for Kerby — he understands the value of our rich heritage and iconic silhouettes and how he can build on that and take Reebok in an exciting and evolved direction.”

Jean-Raymond had been transparent about the beginnings of the Reebok relationship. The designer was ready to step away from Pyer Moss, but stayed in order to partner with the sports brand, which helped the designer keep his brand. He said at the WWD CEO Summit in November 2019 that Presson said he could offer “at least 10 times the amount” what another brand was offering Jean-Raymond to join the Reebok team.

Jean-Raymond said he believes the future of fashion is experiential, which calls to question what his output for Reebok will be in this new role. This year, he launched a new mentorship platform, announced a film and directed two music videos. But he hasn’t forgotten about the product. The first in-house Pyer Moss sneaker, Sculpt, launches on Oct. 3, retailing for $595. The silhouette bears resemblance to the Reebok Experiment 4 Fury Trail by Pyer Moss with an exaggerated sole similar to the Pyer Moss x Reebok DMX Experiment 1 sneaker.

The first Reebok by Pyer Moss collection debuted at Spring Studios in February 2018 with the “American, Also” collection. Jean-Raymond would show two more Reebok by Pyer Moss collections under the “American, Also” moniker at Weeksville in Brownsville, Brooklyn, and Kings Theatre in Flatbush, Brooklyn.

They released more sneakers as well, the Daytona DMX Experiment, Mobius Experiment and the Fury Trail styles. He said in November 2019 that his footwear, in particular “sells out within the first four minutes.”

Last year, he established Reebok Studies, which he described as “a division where I can sign talent, give them collaboration deals, give them sponsorship deals so that they can have money to grow their companies.”

And this year, Jean-Raymond remained very busy, directing music videos for rappers Wale and Joey Bada$$, and also through philanthropic work, donating in March $50,000 to support minority and female-owned independent businesses impacted by COVID-19 through Your Friends in New York. He also asked for mail-in donations of masks and gloves and contributed $5,000 for supplies.

He also announced he will premiere a film, “American, Also,” chronicling his runway shows and the Black experience in America. The project that was filmed over two years was slated to premiere this year at drive-in theaters and to bring the community and New York City together and engage with fans, but the date and format have not been confirmed yet.

“It’s always been our mission to show the amount of thinking and laboring that goes behind putting together a collection — we’ve been slowing down the speed of how much we produce and improving the quality of what we produce throughout the years,” Jean-Raymond said in a statement announcing the film. “This film aims to show the love and care our entire company puts into every single moment we create and will show that we appreciate fashion as an art form and communication tool.”

By Obi Anyanwu on September 30, 2020

BEAUTIFUL GENIUS

BEAUTIFUL GENIUS : JORDAN PIANTEDOSI

Jordan Piantedosi is an interdisciplinary maximalist based in Boston.  She is energized by genre-blending & subverting the expectations of a medium - the design of bizarre textiles, (the feminine gaze, the subversive domestic, repetition and tessellation) and comics, (literary, narrative-driven, cinematic, humorous), and oil painting, (sensuality, mythology, grandiosity, symbolism, historically elevated.)  The spirit of simultaneity and proximity in the digital age invites comparison between these disparate sets of expectations, their varying levels of formality, where they are located in a cultural hierarchy, whether they contain a linear sense of time, and how they interact with oppositional forces.  Who do we identify as a protagonist?  An honest painter must admit that the act of painting, in all of its hilarious physicality, is the dragging of hairs through slime.  One could say “painting is dead,” or “take a picture, it’ll last longer,” but in the activated state of observation, the eyes become two ants, and they devour a desire very slowly - the labor of artwork is a desire that cannibalizes itself.  Simultaneously, at the atomic level, the trajectory of a particle in motion will be influenced by the expectations and desires of the scientist who bears witness to it.  As the artist misrepresents the muse, the art lover projects herself into the artwork's window of negative space - a sensual hologram.  The eyes drink color as if it were wine.  When we become bashful from so much looking, we hide behind the artwork to feel seen.  In this way, the artist makes herself useful.  

JORDAN PIANTEDOSI: BEAUTIFUL GENIUS In 2016 I designed textiles and hand-painted leather for about one-third of the pieces in Erin Robertson's winning collection at NYC Fashion Week for Project Runway. I attended the taping of the final episode &amp…

JORDAN PIANTEDOSI: BEAUTIFUL GENIUS
In 2016 I designed textiles and hand-painted leather for about one-third of the pieces in Erin Robertson's winning collection at NYC Fashion Week for Project Runway. I attended the taping of the final episode & you bet I DID get kisses from Heidi Klum.

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NIKE AIR RAID "URBAN JUNGLE"

The Nike Air Raid “Urban Jungle Gym” From 1993 Is Returning Again

Throughout 2020, various classics from Nike Basketball’s 1990s roster have either been retroed or teased for a reissue. The original Nike Air Raid is rumored to return before the year ends, but now its louder “Urban Jungle Gym” colorway from 1993 is beloved to return, too. 

Launched alongside Spike Lee’s “Live Together, Play Together” campaign, the Air Raid animates its predominant greyscale palette with colorful patterns across the tongue, heel, and midsole. Signature double-straps on the upper feature a multi-color peace symbol at the midfoot, which evokes the message of unity Lee expresses in the aforementioned 1992 commercial. Although last seen in 2014, the Air Raid “Urban Jungle Gym” is poised to follow its original color scheme and construction much closer than its last retro, as a first-look at the pair reveals true “Dark Grey” overlays. While word has yet to emerge, the release’s accompanying Nike Sportswear models (i.e. Air Force 1, Air Max 1) may also retro in the ’90s theme.

Enjoy a first look at this Air Raid retro below, as you wait for official Nike SNKRS release details to emerge. by Jovani Hernandez for SneakerNews.

JOEL EMBIID GETS HIS SIGNATURE SNEAKER

Since Steph Curry is absent of all Orlando bubble games, Under Armour is turning to one of their newest family members Joel Embiid to give them some on-court representation for the rest of the NBA season. The Sixers currently sit at the 6th seed in the Eastern Conference, and “The Process” will play a significant role in helping his squad contend for the Larry O’Brien trophy, especially since his co-captain in Ben Simmons is sitting out indefinitely due to a knee injury. So with all eyes on Embiid moving forward, there’s no better time to introduce the 7-foot phenom’s first signature shoe.

Entitled the UA Embiid One, the high-profile basketball silhouette is engineered for hoop athletes of any position. Uppers are formed with a full ventilated mesh, and supported by a TPU wing mold placed at the forefoot to keep you locked down during play. In terms of branding, the big man’s signature logo is pressed onto the tongues, while Under Armour logos land on the Micro G foam-loaded midsoles towards the rear, and in tinier fashion on the medial side up by the ankle. Its inaugural makeup dubbed the “Origin” is reliant on stark black to coat its upper, and comes supported with lava-like gradients that ornament the aforementioned TPU wings for a palette reminiscent of the first Kyrie 1 colorway. These will be dropping on UnderArmour.com as well as other North American retailers come September 18th, followed by a global release that will take place on October 2nd.

UA Embiid One “Origin”
NA Release Date: September 18th, 2020
Global Release Date: October 2nd, 2020

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PALOMA ELSESSER

Paloma Elsesser on the Legacy of
Jean-Michel Basquiat.

For many in the fashion sphere, New York downtown legend and neo-expressionist artist Jean-Michel Basquiat has been a recurring source of inspiration thanks to his cartoon-inspired drawings and raw, graffiti-like images with hurried text. Stuart Vevers, the creative director of Coach, is one such big fan, having sent models down his Fall 2020 runway in pieces featuring Basquiat's distinctive motifs.

But it was Basquiat's use of social commentary — his artworks often referenced power structures and systems of racism — and his subsequent celebration of the Black and Latino experience in a notoriously elitist industry that set him apart from the rest (and predated the societal forces and calls for racial justice shaping the U.S. today).

"Basquiat is one of my heroes," Vevers said. "He embodied the creative, inclusive spirit of New York and was a force for change in his community." The designer, whose Coach x Jean-Michel Basquiat collection launches today, worked with members of the late artist's family on the collaboration, which includes a campaign starring ambassadors of the house like Jennifer Lopez and Michael B. Jordan.

Model Paloma Elsesser, who also stars in the campaign, was among the many famous faces who attended that Coach runway show in February, where the Basquiat collection first made its debut. "Being at the show feels so long ago because it was B.C., before corona," Elsesser told PAPER over Zoom. "I remember it feeling referential to the '70s and '80s, but it also very modern. There was a lot of liveliness and spunk. Also, Debbie Harry was playing at the show simultaneously so that was sick."

She also holds particularly fond memories of shooting for the Basquiat campaign, which was photographed by Micaiah Carter, describing it as a "profound" experience. "It felt very timely to be included in a collaboration highlighting and celebrating Black art and also for a Black artist like Basquiat, who was able to subscribe to the nuances of what it was to be a Black man in America in ways that were really subversive and timeless," she said.

Elsesser remembers being really young when she first encountered Basquiat's paintings. "I think actually I saw the works first and it sparked something," she said. "And then I became more enveloped and excited to know more about him, which I think has taught me a lot of lessons in how talent can supersede identity and that identity also formulates such a richer kind of work."

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She continued, "He was quite radical for his time and there was a kind of anarchist disfunction to his work in a way that I think should affirm a generation and young artists to make art, think, exist freely. Basquiat's age of art was in the '80s, which wasn't that long ago but it was long enough to then create more of a space and a chasm to the fact that we can create our own narrative, where no matter how niche or different your story may feel, when you share that part of yourself to the world there will be someone who identifies with it." by: Mario Abad

Why Is Fashion So Obsessed with Jean-Michel Basquiat?

An interview with Micaiah Carter, who photographed Coach's latest collaboration with the artist.

Why is the fashion world still so fixated on Jean-Michel Basquiat? How does an artist, 30-some years after his death, continue to be such a constant collaborator? In part, it is the fact that his estate has long been partnered with the licensing agent Artestar, thereby ensuring that his signature and imagery would appear on Off-White T-shirts, New Era caps, and even Peloton uniforms for years to come.

But Basquiat also had a certain way of moving and was a great beauty, which made him the perfect runway model for, say, the spring 1987 Comme des Garçons show. He also combined his passion with a cool remove, posing for the New York Times Magazine in 1985 wearing a paint-streaked Armani power suit, barefoot. It’s the kind of impertinent dance with consumer culture that artists today are usually too self-righteous to undertake.

Most recently, Basquiat’s work appears in the fall 2020 collection of Coach, which today debuts its collection of bags, T-shirts, and sweatshirts printed with the artist’s imagery, like the crown and dinosaur. The campaign was shot by Micaiah Carter and features Michael B. Jordan, Jennifer Lopez, Paloma Elsesser, Jon Batiste, and Basquiat’s niece Jessica Kelly, to name a few. In addition to the images, Coach will release a number of videos on social media in which subjects meditate on subjects like the family and art.

Basquiat, Carter says, “was a springboard for people to open up conversations that I think people weren’t having as often. And it resonated with the people that we shot, who are all people in the community who are all advocating for equal rights, not just for people of color but for all types of people.”

But Carter, who is 25, also points to something else: “A lot of it was New York.” He recalled arriving in the city from his small California hometown and thinking, “You have no choice but to adapt into your own ways” of approaching style. “Given his success, he still really made it his own with these designers and with these luxury brands to make it come back down to earth and really put his mark on everything. I think today people are inspired by that bravery that he had, to just do what he wanted to do.”

Carter’s signature is combining an easy sense of intimacy with a warm majesty. (It was firing on all cylinders in his photographs of Pharrell, posing in a Moncler gown, for the November 2019 issue of GQ as well.) Carter captured his subjects with an attitude that echoes the easy, stylish cool he attributes to Basquiat—Elsesser grinning, Jordan in a perfect crouch, and Lopez with her hoodie yanked over her head and nails painted electric blue. “They’re all artists,” he says, “and so there’s this respect—this level of collaboration.”

The other secret, Carter notes, is the perfect playlist. “I think that sets the mood.” Erykah Badu, City Girls, Playboi Carti, James Brown, and gospel music are all standards for him.

J. Lo brought her own playlist, however, and, Carter says, “I was able to vibe with that and really connect with her.” On the playlist? “Remixes of her own songs. I mean, that really gets you in the zone.” Barefoot Basquiat would approve. BY RACHEL TASHJIAN

YOUNG RIOT: POOLSIDE

YOUNG RIOT: POOLSIDE

LET US REFLECT AND REJOICE THE TRIUMPH OF SPIRIT. THE RESILIENCE OF BLACKNESS THAT TRANSMUTE OPPRESSION AND THEREBY WITHIN PLIGHT FINDS SOLACE. WHAT IS IT LIKE TO WRITE A LOVE LETTER TO YOUR CHILDHOOD HOME AND, IN DOING SO, YOURSELF TO FIND (READ:CONFRONT), SELF, A BLACK MAN MUST WADE THROUGH WATER, HOWEVER METAPHORICAL IN NATURE.

HERE, DAVID HOCKNEY’S PORTRAIT OF AN ARTIST SERVES AS A VEHICLE TO EXPLORE THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN AN IDEALIZED SENSE OF SUCCESS AND A MAN WHO, IN THE FACE OF VIOLENCE AND TRAGEDY, CONSTRUCTED A BEAUTIFUL PATH TO FREEDOM. LURKING A LAYER BELOW, THIS EXAMINATION PRESENTS US WITH THE REALITY OF OUR PAST CIRCUMSTANCES. THAT IS A MAN TRAPPED IN A PRISON; HE WAS NEVER MEANT TO ESCPAE. HIS VOICE IS THE ONLY MEANS WITH WHICH HE MIGHT ESCAPE THE BOX. POOLSIDE. 

WEB: www.patheticpixels.com

STREAM POOLSIDE
 

CRAV* CHANGE REQUIRES ACCEPTING VIEWS

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Squarespace Donates $500K

Squarespace to Donate $500,000 towards Justice Reform and Alleviating Racial Inequality

Like many of you, I have been heartbroken to watch recent events unfold, demonstrating the abhorrent and unjust treatment of members of the Black community in the US. At Squarespace, we believe in the power of individuals to make great things -- and we also believe in the power of individuals to make great change. It is all of our responsibility to take action to dismantle the systems of oppression and racism, and today I am sharing Squarespace’s long-term commitment to do more. 

Squarespace will start by donating $500,000 to organizations working towards social justice reform and alleviating racial inequality in the US. Our first donation will be in the amount of $100,000 and the remaining funds will be donated over the next 3 years. To decide where we will be donating, we are researching both the underlying needs of the organizations as well as their infrastructure to decide where our money will go the furthest. We will build partnerships with organizations that we get involved with, through volunteerism and other opportunities, and we will continue to match employee donations made using our donation-matching platform, Bright Funds.

Our platform is home to incredible changemakers working to educate others and make a difference in the world, and we have the opportunity to help amplify their missions. We are going to continue to make it a priority to promote and provide visibility for Black creators that use Squarespace, as well as customers using their causes, voices and platforms to enact change. 

For our team, this is an incredibly difficult and emotional time for many, especially our Black colleagues. We recognize that we cannot focus on outward change without first looking inward. Squarespace must be a place where all can thrive and achieve their full potential, without bias and other systemic unfair processes that hinder success. We will continue to work to build and expand programs designed to further D&I at Squarespace in a number of key areas that include broadly implementing our unconscious bias education program and improving diversity in leadership roles.

The change we all need to see won’t happen overnight. These issues are systemic and deeply rooted, and it will take a committed and concerted effort. We pledge to support and stand in solidarity with our Black colleagues, customers, and communities for the long haul.

Anthony Casalena
Founder & CEO, Squarespace  

NIKE CANYON

NIKE CANYON
Your journey starts with the Nike Canyon Sandal. This rugged hiker is ready to explore. The ACG-inspired design features a beefy outsole, plush foam midsole, and triple-strap closure. From cityscapes to the river banks, this versatile powerhouse will keep you steady on your feet and comfortable tackling whatever lies ahead. Enjoy your time away. You’ve earned it. Explore the Nike Canyon. The rugged design is inspired by old-school ACG hikers. Plush foam feels good underfoot. The beefy outsole has deep flex grooves and big lugs to help you find firm ground. Three adjustable straps let you personalize the fit. Durable webbing and a heavy-duty buckle on the top of the foot give major outdoor vibes.

BIGGIE SMALLS x FILA

BIGGIE SMALLS CELEBRATES 48th BIRTHDAY
WITH A FILA COLLABORATION CAPSULE FOR SUMMER.

Thanks to his laundry list of iconic rap tunes, Notorious B.I.G. will be forever remembered as one of the greatest hip hop artists to ever walk the planet. And in celebration of the 25th anniversary of his legendary “Ready to Die” album, as well as what would have been his 48th birthday this Thursday, FILA has decided to create a commemorative capsule in his honor. Alongside a full apparel range is a duo of special Biggie x FILA Tennis 88 footwear renditions. Serving as updated version to the Original Tennis model that sparked popularity for the Sportswear brand amongst the Brooklyn community in the 90s, the kicks pay tribute to the late rapper through dual branded tongues that print out the number 25 just beneath its crown insignias, the famous baby photo from the album art translated onto the footbeds, as well as the words “Ready To Die” embroidered on the heel counter. Two colorways including a cream/red as well as a white/aqua blue are set to release first on FILA.com on May 19th, and at additional retailers on May 21st for $90 a piece.
VIA SNAKER NEWS BY ELLIOT SANTIAGO

BEN JERRY'S NIKE SB DUNK "CHUNKY DUNKY"

BEN JERRY'S NIKE SB DUNK "CHUNKY DUNKY"

Nike SB Dunks have gained fame for their out-of-the-box concepts and progressive means of redefining a skate shoe. Ben & Jerry’s is familiar with that methodology as they’ve gained unparalleled fame for their own unique flavors and packaging for decades. And despite much of fat-tongued Dunk appeal being the unusual nature of collaborations, Nike SB and Ben & Jerry’s share a lot of core values.

It’s now a pesky waiting game for the upcoming May 23rd/26th release date of the epic Ben & Jerry’s x Nike SB Dunk Low collaboration. In the meantime, we’ve decided to show you a first-hand look at the “Chunky Dunky” Dunks, which is inspired by the cold confectionary’s trademark flavor of “Chunky Monkey”. Decorated with cow fur exteriors with mis-matched patterns, a Swoosh with extended “melted” edges, and the rainbow covering on the insoles and lining, these SB Dunks offer up that truly unhinged design in all the right ways. Peep our YouTube unboxing video below and stay tuned for release info and a store list.

Updated: Ben & Jerrys is giving away one pair of the shoes. Enter here. VIA SNEAKER NEWS

J BALVIN X Air Jordan 1 HIGH

J Balvin’s Air Jordan 1 High Collaboration Expected To Release This Holiday Season

If all of the sold out drops and astronomically high resell prices of Off-White and Travis Scottcollaborations are any indication, it’s that the Nike/Jordan team have mastered the art of aligning with key influential partners. And as we saw confirmed via an incredible Super Bowl halftime show this past February, the Jumpman music roster is set to expand by one this year with the welcoming of reggaeton artist J Balvin. The Colombian icon, who has been running up the numbers in recent years in terms of popular tunes with the likes of Cardi B, Bad Bunny, Major Lazer, and more, is now receiving his very own Air Jordan 1 collaboration. Balvin discussed in a recent interview that although production was caused to be pushed back due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the kicks will now be targeting a release for the 2020 holiday season.

Visually, the kicks are expressive of the artist’s vibrant fashion sense as the upper, which has been upgraded with edgy/extended overlays, is presented with a vibrant multi-colored gradient base seated next to a cream-colored tongue. Accents arrive by way of stark black shoe strings, as well as his signature happy face logo stamped along the left tongue and lateral heels. Peep a first look here ahead, and keep it locked for more official information related to its release likely on Nike.com and at select stockists. via sneaker news by elliot santiago

j balvin air jordan1.jpg